Windward ho to Hawaii

And sure enough, the bulk of those pleasure-seeking tourists swarm to 500-acre Waikiki which resembles a mega resort nestled within the city. Intent on missing nothing, they jostle one another on the golden mile and a half beach with those gorgeous bronzed beach boys in attendance, at both casual eateries and fine dining establishments and at hostelries ranging from the very basic to the most opulent.

Shopping for the ubiquitous mu-mus, matching aloha shirts and touristy tchotchkes is de rigueur, although the most haute of couture is also widely available. Making nighttime merry at extravagant stage shows; listening to the iconic Don Ho; drowning oneself in tropical libations graced with little umbrellas; and taking turns emulating hula pros are also requisites of the complete holiday experience. Those who really enjoy this frenetic scene keep coming back year after year, but some others who've been there and done that are discovering that there's much more to Oahu than Waikiki.

Nowhere is very far from elsewhere on Oahu (even the entire circle island bus circuit is only 3½ hours including stops) but wheels are essential unless you're on a package holiday or staying right in Waikiki and taking advantage of local tours. On a recent 10-day trip, I stayed with close friends who live just a 20-minute ride from the international terminal on the Windward side of the island. Obviously, I didn't have the concern of renting a car as they were generous in hauling me about or loaning me a car. However, I'd heard about TheBus (www.thebus.org), winner of several America's Best Transit System awards, and decided to be adventuresome and give it a try. What a treat it was!

With big, clean, air-conditioned vehicles, extremely cordial and knowledgeable drivers, and friendly fellow passengers eager to chat and answer questions, who could ask for more at $27 for a monthly pass or $15 for four days? And the nicest folks ever are on hand every day from 5:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. to answer your phone queries at (808) 848-5555 concerning route service and detailed schedule information.

Since almost all of the island's hotels are located in Waikiki, those who choose to vacation elsewhere on the island can opt for bay, beach or hillside. Accommodations range from modest to luxurious, from B&B rooms and suites, townhouses, cottages and studio apartments to elegant houses. The Kailua/Lanikai/Kaneohe Bay Windward areas are among the most appealing and very popular choices among discerning holiday makers. Rick Maxey owns the well-known Hawaiian Islands Vacation Rentals, www.lanikaibb.com, phone United States/Canada (800) 258-7895. The Web site gives details of rentals starting at $85 per night. I'm personally familiar with a wonderful property located directly on Kaneohe Bay where one bedroom with a queen-size bed and bath goes for $50 a night and a twin-bedded room with sitting room and adjoining bath is priced at $65. One may contact the owner, Irene Hedemann, for full information at (808) 235-2213.

With so much to do and see on Oahu that's very special, it's difficult to pick and choose, but almost everyone heads for the shore. However, it's strongly recommended that all read a particular Honolulu Star-Bulletin article, http://starbulletin.com/2002/03/24/news/story3.html, on safety before heading to any of Oahu's beaches. Kailua, Hawaii's biggest beach town, is also a bedroom community for residents who eschew the glitz and hustle of Honolulu/Waikiki in favor of a quieter, more idyllic life style. They enjoy the charms of their villagelike community but are cordial in sharing its natural attractions including Kailua Beach and adjacent Lanikai Beach. Kailua's relatively tranquil waters are the spot for trying out or simply watching others kitesurfing/kiteboarding, that daring new watersport, as well one-man outrigger canoeing and kayaking out to the Mokolua islands.

Beforehand, pop into the vintage Kalapawai Market that's been around since 1932 for a tasty take-out lunch to fortify yourself for these strenuous maritime activities. And one day while you're in the area, you'll surely want to stop by Heeia Pier which juts out into Kaneohe Bay and maybe take a snorkel cruise or else sail out to a nearby sandbar for a super view of Oahu that even most residents have never seen. On Tuesdays through Sundays from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. the Pier Deli serves up reasonably priced omelets and plate meals. You'll undoubtedly strike up interesting conversations with the fishermen and sailors who've long frequented the spot.

You'll head home with very special memories if you branch out from urbanized areas either by auto or bus and explore the rather bucolic, fairly untrammeled countryside. No matter what you've heard about poi (just remember that a lot of Americans find grits loathsome and Britons refer to them as that "glop") don't let that put you off visiting the Waiahole Poi Factory situated directly on Kamehameha Highway. And don't let the "weathered" exterior nor the rustic outdoor dining area scare you off. Yes, the lunch you'll enjoy there will certainly include a bowl of poi, that innocuous purplish, gluey glob of steamed and mashed taro root so beloved of Hawaiians as a dipping sauce for virtually everything they eat. Taste it and then ignore if you wish, but you'll probably not leave a morsel of kalua pig, laulau containing chunks of pork steamed in ti and taro leaves, chilled lomi salmon salad, chicken with long rice or perhaps squid luau or tripe stew if you fancy the latter. The price is certainly right. Order the $7 Hawaiian Plate and you'll end up with the same meal, sans the music and dancing girls, served up at pricey Luau presentations. Operated by Maxine and Al Prudencio and close friend Violet Roberts, the Factory is open from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Mondays to Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and Sundays from noon to 3:30 p.m., but never on Thursday. Times are exact.

Since it's open on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from noon to 5 p.m. or by appointment, (808) 293-2000, you may want to time the foregoing with a visit to the Kim Taylor Reece Gallery located at Sacred Falls not too much farther along the same highway. The casually elegant gallery surrounded by the lush green Koolau Mountains and sparkling ocean waters showcases the black and white and sepia works of Hawaii's foremost fine art photographer who has garnered worldwide recognition and a stream of awards for his brilliantly evocative images depicting dancers performing Kahiko, an ancient form of hula. Phone (808) 293-2000, toll-free (800) 657-7966, www.KimTaylorReece.com.

Another day's foray afield might take one along the Windward coast as far as Haleiwa on the North Shore. Not too long before you reach Kualoa Ranch, slow down with your camera at the ready and watch on the right for a roadside rooster farm where the handsome, very possibly competitive residents live in bright-blue, domed coops. The route passes beside Kualoa, a working 4,000-acre, family-owned working ranch located in the beautiful Kaaawa Valley where visitors can choose from a variety of outdoor activities and scenic tours. And then not so far beyond is the BYU Polynesian Cultural Center, an excellent tourist attraction especially popular for large tour groups.

The community of Haleiwa is really a funky little gem, site of "Baywatch" filmings and touted as Hawaii's surfing capital except in summer when surf's NOT up. Its historic buildings include a vintage 1921 structure which for the last 35 years has been home to Surf & Sea Ocean Sports Heaquarters. Check out the collection of surfboards hanging from the ceiling that trace the evolution of the sport from ancient wooden boards to examples of every era since. While strolling the quaint town with its arts and crafts shops and galleries, do take a couple of times out to sample an inimitable burger at Kua Aina Burgers and later, a "shave-ice" (snow cone) at the M. Matsumoto store that's been grinding them out for over 40 years. They're a unique taste treat right down to the sweet azuki beans in the bottom of the paper cone.