Dining Out: La Bamba's tasty Tex-Mex dishes are crowd pleasers

TIDBITS

La Bamba; 5323 Pine Ridge Road; Bed, Bath & Beyond Plaza; 594-1212 Hours: Open from 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and from 8 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Food: Mexican. Service: Casual, but friendly and efficient. Atmosphere: This is a family dining spot, brightly lit and comfortable but far from fancy. Prices (from dinner menu): Appetizers and dips from $2.50 to $8; fajita platters for one from $12 to $17; burritos, quesadillas, chimichangas and enchiladas from $10 to $12; specialty platters from $11 to $17; desserts average $4. Beverages: Beer and wine, including Mexican imports. Wheelchair accessible: Yes. Credit Cards: All major. Value: Good. You'll leave properly stuffed without breaking the bank. Our rating: * * 1/2 (* - Good. * * - Very Good. * * * - Excellent. * * * * - Extraordinary.)

The only dish they found worth recommending was fajitas. If you order them without the beans, sour cream and guacamole, that is.

Well, the other evening, while checking out La Bamba's new location in the Bed, Bath & Beyond Plaza on Pine Ridge Road, one of my guests followed their suggestion. Sort of.

He opted for one of the restaurant's popular "sizzling fajita" options ($10 for one, $18 for two diners). But not surprisingly, he enjoyed the entree in all its glory -- wrapping the nicely grilled chicken breast strips in warm tortillas, then eating them with rice and all the popular flavor-enhancers including beans, salsa and guacamole.

After all, when most people treat themselves to a Tex-Mex feast, it's because they want ... um ... the whole enchilada. Sometimes that means saving up calories before the splurge. But for health-conscious lovers of south-of-the-border cuisine, a little sacrifice is worth it.

If the food's well-prepared and packs a bit of a punch -- like most everything we sampled the other night at La Bamba -- so much the better.

During our visit, only the opening act was a bit of a disappointment. At most Tex-Mex and even at La Bamba when it was located on Davis Boulevard, guests are served complimentary baskets of warm chips and bowls of zesty salsa.

While the chips were fine, the "salsa" had the taste and consistency of the kind of bottled hot sauce you buy at the supermarket, rather than the expected tomato-onion-green chiles-cilantro medley.

After consulting with our waitress, we got what we wanted -- pico de gallo -- which is listed on the menu for $2.75. I don't recall ever having to pay extra for an item that's traditionally free.

The second dip was wonderful, however, impeccable fresh with just the right amount of fire to suit most people. Icy cold bottles of Dos Equis, served with lime wedges, were the perfect accompaniment.

In addition to the aforementioned chicken fajitas, my guests and I ordered two other entrees. The food police would give one of them its OK, albeit without the black beans which were gooey with melted cheese.

This dish, called Camarones al Mojo de Ajo ($15) consisted of good-size shrimp sauted in garlic and white wine. Rice and those high-test beans came on the side.

My guest called it, "a good dish ... flavorful and served with nice accompaniments." He noted it was also lighter than the average offering, like the dinner I ordered.

Burritos, quesadillas, chimichangas and tostadas are all available in various guises. I decided on a definite calorie splurge, two cheese enchiladas ($10) with rice and black beans. The huge platter (enough for two normal appetites) was glistening with molten cheese.

Was it good for you? I seriously doubt it. But it sure tasted good, especially jazzed up with a few dollops of fresh salsa.

Like most Mexican restaurants, this one offers a dessert menu limited to flan and a couple ice cream concoctions. I can't imagine who has room to indulge.

Note: La Bamba moved to North Naples from 2225 David Blvd. about two months ago. (A second location at 2196 Airport-Pulling Road S. is expected to open in early 2004. Another outlet already exists at Miramar Outlets in Estero.) The original building had a lived-in look, which gave the place a bit of character. Home is now a typical, brightly lit shopping center space, more utilitarian than stylish.

The sparse decor is attractive, however, and includes sunny gold walls and a large, colorful mural advising, "Amigos, Don't drink the water, drink Cervezes."

Both lunch and dinner are served, and the staff is bilingual.