Pest-free without pesticides

The recent series in the Naples Daily News, "The Gulf in Peril," points a finger at the excessive use of pesticides by homeowners as one of the leading causes of pollution in local waterways and, eventually, in the Gulf of Mexico. A government study documented Florida's fondness for chemical pesticides, which was only surpassed by California, the largest user.

How can gardeners reduce the use of pesticides? The place to start is how we look at those creepy, crawly things in our yards. They are creepy, but they're not all bad. In fact, of the almost 1 million species of insects known, fewer than l percent are serious pests. The zillions of others are on our side, helping us destroy the damaging pests or simply coexisting with us.

In shaking the pesticide habit, start with some beginning steps:

Get more familiar with your garden. Tour it frequently, witnessing firsthand the amazing diversity of wildlife that comprises a healthy garden. Insects, anoles (American lizards), birds, frogs and snakes all play a role in maintaining that balance.

Be aware of how your plants look when they're healthy.

Learn to recognize the good bugs. Some of South Florida's most common ones are lady beetles, parasitic wasps, lacewings, ground beetles, spiders, praying mantids, assassin bugs, ambush bugs, predaceous stinkbugs, syrphid flies, damselflies, dragonflies and paper wasps.

Fact sheets on beneficial insects from the University of Florida can help you to ID them online at edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN002 and edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN003. A good, inexpensive reference book is "Guide to Florida Insects" by Robert Anderson.

If the insects you spot aren't beneficials and are causing damage, decide how serious the situation is. Often the best approach is to tolerate a little damage or even the loss of a plant rather than disturb the fragile balance of nature. Then when you replant, consider a pest-resistant species such as a native plant.

The most common problem bugs you're likely to encounter in this area are aphids, mealybugs, scales, whiteflies, thrips, snails, spider mites and caterpillars. Most gardeners have already met them even if they haven't been formally introduced.

When intervention is needed

First, make sure you know what you're battling. If a pest problem persists and you can't identify it, take a sample of the insect to the Master Gardeners Plant Clinic, at the Naples Branch Library, 650 Central Ave., Thursday, 9 a.m. to noon. You can also stop by the Extension Service Center, 14700 Immokalee Rd., 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.

DETAILS

PRODUCT RESOURCES For natural pest control products such as diatomaceous earth, sticky insect traps and more, here are two among many companies that deal in them: Agrowynn Fertilizers,1422 Calle Christopher, Encinitas, CA 92024; (888)794-3674; Web site, www.fertilizeronline.com Hydroasis, 2643 S.Fairfax Ave, Culver City, CA 90232'; (310) 559-GROW or (888) 355-GROW; Web site, www.hydroasis.com. RESOURCES "Natural Alternatives to Pest Control," a single-sheet listing of recipes for home pest control, is available from the City of Naples Solid Waste Division. Call 213-4700. Florida Yards and Neighborhoods is an outreach program designed to help homeowners protect Florida's environment. The program is headed by the University of Florida's Cooperative Extension Service. To get more information, go to hort.ufl.edu/fyn or call 353-4244. Common Sense Pest Control (CSCP), a program developed by the Broward Pollution Prevention and Remediation Division, is an excellent source of information, including recipes for home brews. CSPC is online at www.co.broward.fl.us/ppi02100.htm; recipes, www.co.broward.fl.us/ppi00200.htm. More recipes are available from Greenpeace on its Web site (www.Greenpeaceusa.org). Identification of beneficial insects is available from the University of Florida; ID your critters online at edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN002 and edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IN003. A good, inexpensive reference book is "Guide to Florida Insects" by Robert Anderson. Chemical disposal. When you're ready to pitch your old chemical pesticides, take them to the Household Hazardous Waste Collection Center at the Naples Landfill, 3901 White Lake Boulevard off Collier Boulevard (former County Road 951), 455-2830, noon to 1 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and 8 a.m. to noon Saturday.

Many insect problems can be reduced or eliminated by removing a few affected leaves or plant parts or by garden housekeeping like weeding, thinning or cleaning up debris. Hand-picking snails used to be a sunset ritual of mine, at least until the hand-picking and Schultz's Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait (locally available at Driftwood Garden Center and Wal-mart) lowered the population to an acceptable level.

If that doesn't do the trick, it's time to consider natural pest controls. Thank goodness that no longer means you have to mix something up yourself, although that's still an alternative if you are so inclined. Packaged products like Safer Insect Killing Soap and Concern Multi-Purpose Insect Killer (both from Victor Pest), Bayer Advanced Garden Tree and Shrub Insect Control and Organocide now stand alongside chemical pesticides on the shelves of Home Depot and Lowe's.

You can even mail-order beneficial insects or a bacterium called Bacillus thuringiensis under brand names like Dipel or Thuricide.

What are the alternatives?

Here's an overview of the types of natural pesticides available:

Soaps: These act on many damaging pests, including aphids, squash bug nymphs, leafhoppers, and thrips. The spray must contact pests to work, so direct-spray upward from beneath the plant. You can buy this or make it yourself by mixing a mild liquid dish soap with water. (The National Gardening Association suggests using a liquid dish soap like Ivory Liquid at a 1 or 2 percent concentration in water; see recipes later on.) To avoid leaf burn, don't spray while the sun is shining directly on the plants; do it early or late in the day.

Oil: A spray of oil suffocates insects. They are not selective in their action, so overuse may have detrimental effects on beneficial insects. Spray must contact the pests to work. Spray early or late in the day to avoid leaf burn. If you must spray during the warm part of the day, you may have to dilute the mixture. You can also make this at home.

Insecticidal soap and oil combination: You will often get the best results by combining oil and soap. Add the appropriate amount of oil to your homemade soap spray.

Plant-derived products: Neem, from the neem tree, has been used in India for centuries. Extracts of azadirachtin from neem trees disrupt an insect's feeding and reproduction. Many of the interwww.neemdirect.com

Pyrethrin and rotenone are both derived from plants but that doesn't mean they aren't powerful. Both are broad-spectrum, killing beneficial insects as well as pests.

Row covers: Super lightweight fabrics exclude pests but allows light, air, and water to pass through. They're great for covering a bed of pest-prone greens or a row of squash vines, but be careful not to cover plants when they're in flower and need pollination.

Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.): B.t. is a bacterium that attacks caterpillars. There are also other B.t. strains available that attack other garden pests. Note that it kills all caterpillars, even butterfly larvae, so use it only when absolutely necessary.

Diatomaceous earth: This is silicate, the remains of ancient one-celled plants. Its microscopic edges are sharp, wounding insects as they crawl over it. Ask for the "natural-grade," or "agricultural grade," not the product of the same name that is sold for swimming pools.

Insect traps: Traps use color or odors to attract a particular insect species. Yellow plastic dish pans filled with soapy water may be used to attract some aphids. Slugs are attracted to a saucer of beer or yeast solution, where they drink and drown, but make sure the lip is at ground a bit so they can get to it. Some traps use chemical bait to lure insects with food smells or pheromones.

Nemotodes: These nematodes are not to be confused with plant-parasitic nematodes that plague garden and landscape plants. Beneficial nematodes are excellent for combating larval cutworms, fleas, and chinch bugs.

Beneficial insects: Beneficial insects are classified into two major groups: predators and parasites. Predators attack, kill and eat prey. Parasites lay eggs in or on a host which later hatch. Bacteria, fungi and viruses invade the host and cause disease. A third group of beneficial organisms are called pathogens.

Problem prevention

The best way to deal with pests is not to attract them, with exotic plants, plants in the wrong exposure or soil, garden debris, too dense a planting, or a monoculture (too many of the same kind of plant).

Think before you plant. It takes considerable amounts of pesticides to protect plants weakened by unfavorable growing conditions. Know which plants can tolerate the conditions in your yard and plant them. Concentrate on pest-resistant varieties, such as native plants.

Go easy on water and fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing cause excessive growth, making them vulnerable to insects and disease.