The Old Marco Lodge and Crab House in Goodland was once known far and wide as "Skeeter's," and if you were lucky enough to find a real old timer, they could easily point you in the right direction to the restaurant known by the nickname of its popular manager.

Fast forward to the present, and yet another repeat visit (last Wednesday) to the Old Marco Lodge Crab House for yet another dinner of arguably the best and freshest seafood to be found anywhere. Then, a few words about the restaurant's airy, dining room lined with windows facing west for glorious sunsets reflected in Barfield Bay waters. Also, a few more words about the magnificent, embellished golden-hued slash pine (full liquor) bar lining the wall across from the bandstand and substantial dance floor area where kids as well as adults are welcome to dance to the tunes of weekend bands. Bear with me, the food part is coming but it's been ages since my last visit and I was delighted to find the restaurant's timeless Florida Cracker ambiance is still intact. The food is delightfully excellent, and the service (a smiling new face named Cindy) as friendly and attentive as ever!

Equally delightful were our two appetizers, conch fritters and fried calamari. I'd forgotten how wonderful the crispy, thinly sliced and deep-fried calamari circlets and teeny tentacles could taste when prepared here. I've been disappointed often by the thick flabby pieces that pass for such a classic dish in a few other restaurants. Speaking classic, there are raw bar clams and oysters as well as standard appetizer favorites on the menu. Especially wonderful were the golden-crusted, puffy conch fritters created according to an "Old Conch Republic recipe" (the menu says) and served with a tangy and tantalizing mango sauce that required a few refills because it added awesome layers of flavor to the already superb fried calamari.

Could anything possibly top our astounding appetizers? You bet! My tablemate's main course selection of impeccably fresh, thick loin filet of grouper oscar that could arguably set the standard for this classic dish. Picture a platter of baked grouper simply topped with verdant steamed asparagus spears covered with a mound of lump blue crab all nestled under a velvety blanket of hollandaise.

The menu's fish repertoire also accommodates diverse appetites with a platter comprised of grouper, mahi and snapper served blackened, baked, grilled or fried, or can be enjoyed with any one fish similarly prepared. While I'm there I'll add that all entrees are served with divine, crusty and warm rolls, individually wrapped, real butter pats, a choice of rice, French fries or divine, fluffy baked potatoes and one trip to a well-stocked, interesting salad bar. There's a nice selection of made-in-house dressings as well as an ample container of blue cheese crumbles for those (like me) who believe you can never get enough of a good thing, n'cest pas?

Speaking of good things, my appetite steered me toward "Stuffed Shrimp" a half-dozen large Gulf shrimp nestled in an oval gratin dish topped with the house signature crab imperial and baked to tender and luscious perfection. The menu's "Shrimp, Scallops & Oysters" section also offered the succulent shellfish steamed or fried (breaded or coconut-dusted) as well as broiled scallops and a fried oyster dinner (I enjoyed on a previous visit) that almost seduced me from the shrimp dish!

Crab is king (tee-hee) on the menu with Alaska king crab, stone crab claws and steamed or garlic blue crabs available seasonally and market-priced. Not to worry, the crab imperial, the Maryland crab cakes (just wonderful), the snow crab, several seafood platters and more are to be had anytime.

Land lovers are not forgotten with an assortment of char-grilled, hand-cut beef selections or chicken breast prepared several ways. Pasta dishes, baskets and sandwiches, soups and several substantial salads round out the menu. Incidentally, the salad section includes an all-you-care-to-eat option ($6.95) from the restaurant's outstanding and opulent salad bar.

That said, we remembered to save room for a slice of the peanut butter pie, tarted up with real whipped cream, that always sets our hearts aflutter and tastes good too because it's home made with chunky peanut butter and fresh cream. Also home made, equally tarted up and yummy, is the Key lime pie — another perfect ending to a perfect meal. Yes, there's more here to tempt your sweet tooth but you'll have to come and see for yourself, 'nuff said!

Jenine C. Ouillette is a retired features editor of the Key West Citizen and a former food writer and restaurant reviewer for other publications in the Keys and mainland Florida.

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