On the Road: The chronicles of Naples

Approaching Palm Cottage on 12th Avenue South in Olde Naples, it's difficult to tell that this is the oldest cottage in Naples. A huge banyan tree on the fringe of the property hints at the house's age, but the structure is so well preserved that it doesn't appear it was built in 1895. The exterior of the cottage is rather ordinary, but the interior is extraordinary.

Upon entering the house, I felt I was transported to another era — a very pleasing one. The smell of the wood floors (original Dade County Pine, now a protected tree), moldings and vast free-standing staircase combined with the subtle sound of period music — melodies found in the archaic piano and recorded by a volunteer — permeated my senses. The beautifully maintained antique furnishings, paintings and curios had my eyes darting as I strained not to miss anything. There is so much history here; it's fascinating and almost overwhelming.

My guide was Katherine Tusa, executive director of the Naples Historical Society, which acquired the cottage in 1978 and entirely restored it. She was so knowledgeable about the history of the house and the birth of the city of Naples that I didn't have to ask many questions. Tusa and Palm Cottage's docents share not only the details of the building and its contents but also some tantalizing — and often amusing — tales of the "colorful characters" that once lived here.

The cottage was built by Walter Haldeman, owner of the Louisville Courier-Journal, for his friend and colleague Henry Watterson, the Pulitzer Prize-winning editor of the Courier-Journal, and to supplement the overflow of the Naples Hotel just down the street. A boardwalk connected the hotel directly to the beach and the pier. The road was originally named Pier Street, ran from Crayton Cove to the Naples Pier (the town, at that time, was only accessible by boat) and was the "Main Street" of the village.

Palm Cottage is one of the last remaining tabby houses — the home was constructed from a mixture of shells (roasted over a buttonwood fire), sand, limestone and water. The walls are 12 inches thick and, thus, able to withstand the wrath of hurricanes to come.

There's a taste of Marco Island in this cottage. Exquisite furniture donated by Marian Blomeir, former owner of the Olde Marco Island Inn, fills the parlor. The sofa, armchairs, settee and dining chairs belonged to Blomeir's mother and used to reside at the Inn.

Photographs and paintings depicting the previous owners (four altogether) hang on the walls in the library, parlor and bedrooms upstairs. The second floor boasts a photo gallery (36 8-by-10 black and whites) on the walls, tracing the history of Naples from its humble beginning through the arrival of electricity and the railroad to the completion of Tamiami Trail. There are some aerial shots that will blow you away.

The Naples Historical Society possessed some ancient photographs of Marco Island and recently held a ceremony with the Marco Island Historical Society — and historical societies from Bonita Springs and Fort Myers — to present the priceless mementos to their grateful owner.

Visitors must see and hear for themselves the magnificent chronicle of Palm Cottage and early Naples. Aside from touring the cottage, the Historical Society offers guided walking tours of Naples' historic district, which covers the area between the Gulf and Third Street South and the land between Ninth Avenue and Thirteenth Avenue South. Original commercial buildings and authentic cottages are the focus. Unique stories about the inhabitants enhance the history lesson. The walk-and-talk takes 1 1/2 to 2 hours and includes exploring the little-known, quirky alleyways that dwell in Olde Naples. It's worth the exercise.

"Palm Cottage is a great place to start, but certainly not all there is to see," says Tusa. Twelfth Avenue South and bordering areas are "steeped in history of the Who's Who of Naples. The Pullings, the Sloanes, the Hendrys and the Craytons all lived on Pier Street," Tusa noted.

Experience the culture of past times when notables such as Gary Cooper, Heddy Lamar and Robert Montgomery were vacationers in Naples.

Soon you'll be able to stroll through the historically accurate gardens that are now under construction. The landscape will include an edible garden, a fragrance garden, a palm species garden and a "pioneer" garden, which will depict flora indicative of young Naples.

Palm Cottage is open from 1 to 4 p.m. Wednesday and Saturday, May through October. Walking tours are available at 9 a.m. the first Wednesday of each month. Reservations are required. Palm Cottage is located at 137 Twelfth Ave. S., one block east of the Naples Pier. For information or reservations, call 261-8164.