Tokyo tricks: Steak house brings thrills of hibachi cooking and fresh sushi to Marco

When our kids were little and we lived in Corinth, Miss., we would drive about two hours to Memphis, Tenn., for special occasions to eat at Beni Hanna Japanese steak house. It was the first place we encountered hibachi tables and the thrill of watching a Japanese chef prepare a meal before our eyes.

We found our second hibachi restaurant at the World Showcase in the Japan pavilion at Walt Disney World in Orlando. To our surprise, when we moved to Marco Island we discovered that this small place had its own version of these unique, family eateries.

Open year-round the Tokyo Inn, in the shops of Marco on San Marco Road, offers everything that big-city and resort restaurants do. Diners can go there for fresh sushi at the sushi bar or hibachi cooking at the table. During season reservations are necessary, but at this time of year, patrons can walk in and are usually seated immediately at specially designed tables. Tables hold eight patrons and, as diners arrive, the table is filled and the meal begins.

Entrées include single items such as steak, chicken or seafood or combinations of two or more for a few extra dollars. All dinners include a clear broth soup with mushrooms and scallions, a dinner salad with ginger dressing and an assortment of items cooked on the hibachi.

Our meal on June 4 began with the clatter of spatula and utensils as a sort of Japanese dinner bell followed by the chef lighting an alcohol flame that rose several feet into the air. Then rice was poured onto one side of the hot cooking surface and vegetables onto the other. Chefs usually have unique tricks to show off their talents. Our first show was the “Japanese egg roll.” Our chef, Tim McCann, lifted a spinning egg on his spatula, hoisted it into the air and sliced it in half as it descended to the hibachi. After two such feats, he scrambled the eggs and chopped them into the frying rice.

A second trick, the onion volcano, sizzled as our chef added salt to make it sparkle. “Fourth of July,” he said with a smile.

I ordered a scallop and chicken combination for $20.95, which he began cooking immediately. Others at the table ordered steak, shrimp and hibachi tuna. The rice was moved to the hottest part of the cooking surface where it was seasoned, then served onto plates. Chopsticks and forks were available to sample the fried rice. Next, two grilled shrimp were served as appetizers.

The fish and steak were placed on the hibachi and our chef asked again how diners wished them to be prepared. The steak was medium rare and the tuna was requested medium. He cooked and diced each to the requested doneness. Dinners of shrimp and scallops were served beside the rice, followed reasonably closely by steak, chicken and fish.

Finally, the vegetables were moved onto the heat, seasoned and cooked to just crisp. Added to the plate, there was more than enough to eat. A bow from the chef signaled that cooking was over.

We had arrived at 6:30 p.m. and finished at 8 p.m. Wine, beer and sake was available along with sodas and traditional teas. The atmosphere was relaxing with Japanese wall art and oriental accoutrements.

Although we did not sample the sushi, we have had it on several occasions, and even in the summer months when tourism is light, it was always fresh and well prepared.

The Tokyo Inn is located at 1825 San Marco Road. You can call 642-3999 for reservations and hours of operation.