Let's Talk Food: Super summer salads: Cole slaw and the Waldorf

When the temperature soars and our appetites wilt, it's time to turn to cooling, refreshing salads. Salads are healthy, versatile and can be as simple or as complicated as the cook desires.

While the French and Italians lay claim to many of the traditional salads, there are all-American salads that reflect artistry and originality. One such true red, white and blue creation is the Waldorf salad.

It was created at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in the late 19th century, on the site of what is now the Empire State Building in the heart of New York City.

At that time the Waldorf employed a legendary maitre d' named Oscar Tschirky, who was known as Oscar of the Waldorf. When the hotel was to be the site of the very first charity ball in the country, Oscar originated a salad of apples, nuts and mayonnaise — and Waldorf salad became a part of America's cuisine.

Don't expect Waldorf salad at your next charity ball. More sophisticated fare is now on the menu. But this appetizing salad is still a favorite, especially at holiday dinners and family get-togethers.

REAL, AUTHENTIC WALDORF SALAD

4 apples, peeled, cored and diced

Juice of half a lemon

¾ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup chopped, toasted walnuts

Lettuce

Place diced apples in a bowl and squeeze lemon juice over them. Add diced celery and mayonnaise to apples and mix all ingredients thoroughly. Chill mixture and serve on any type of lettuce. Sprinkle with walnuts. Serves 6.

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Cole slaw is another salad that is typically American. Its origin is somewhat uncertain. Food historians have concluded that many of the Eastern European immigrants who came to our shores early in the 20th century found it difficult to find sauerkraut, a staple in their diets.

They began shredding cabbage and adding vinegar and spices to create a dish that resembled sauerkraut. Later mayonnaise, carrots and other ingredients were added.

Which is correct, cold slaw or cole slaw? Cole, although it is frequently spelled and pronounced incorrectly. Cole has nothing at all to do with temperature; it is the generic name for any plant of the Brassica genus, which includes cabbage. Slaw derives from the Danish word for salad.

There are as many recipes for cole slaw as there are leaves on a head of cabbage. This recipe is a favorite and comes from the Time-Life cookbook, "American Regional Cookbook." It marries well with fish, fried chicken and hot dogs.

COLESLAW WITH BOILED DRESSING

½ cup cider vinegar

1/3 cup water

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons flour

2 teaspoons dry mustard

2 teaspoons salt or to taste

½ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons butter

4 eggs, lightly beaten

2 pounds firm, fresh white cabbage

1 cup grated carrots

In a 2 to 3-quart saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, flour, mustard and salt and beat vigorously with a wire whisk until the mixture is smooth. Place over moderate heat and, whisking constantly, add the cream and butter and cook until the butter melts and the sauce comes to a simmer. Stir 2 or 3 tablespoons of the simmering liquid into the beaten eggs and, when they are well incorporated, pour the mixture into the sauce, whisking it constantly.

Reduce the heat to low and continue to whisk until the sauce thickens heavily. With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the saucepan into a deep bowl and cool to room temperature.

Wash the head of cabbage under cold running water, remove the tough outer leaves, and cut the cabbage into quarters. To shred the cabbage, cut out the core and slice the quarters crosswise into 1/8inch-wide strips. Add the shredded cabbage and the carrots to the sauce, toss together gently but thoroughly and taste for seasoning.

Cover with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 6 hours before serving. Serves 8 to 10.

Ask Doris

Q: I use your recipe for eggplant pie all the time and my family loves it. Recently at a potluck supper at our church someone brought a broccoli pie that was absolutely delicious. I'd like to try to make it but don't have a recipe. I hope you can help.

— Evelyn Winston, Naples

A: It took some looking but here it is. I hope it will encourage more readers to prepare and eat broccoli.

BROCCOLI PIE

1 frozen or homemade pie shell

1 (10-ounce) package chopped broccoli or 1 medium head of fresh broccoli, heads and tender stalks, washed thoroughly

6 eggs at room temperature

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese at room temperature

¼ cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese

4 tablespoons finely chopped green onion, mostly white part but some green also

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place the store-bought of homemade pastry shell in a 10-inch pie plate. In a medium saucepan cook the broccoli until still crisp and green. Drain well. In a medium bowl combine the eggs, cream cheese and Cheddar cheese and beat well. Stir in the broccoli, green onion, parsley, salt and pepper. Turn the mixture into the pie shell and top with Parmesan cheese.

Bake the pie in a preheated 425 oven for 20 minutes, until brown and set. Serves 4 to 6.

Doris Reynolds is the author of "Let's Talk Food" and "When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried." They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. For information and comments on today's column, contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr24@aol.com.