Dining Out: Breakfast at Jane's Café wakes up downtown scene

Not surprisingly, the downtown scene slows to a dull roar during the lazy, hazy days of summer. But even when temps climb into the sticky 90s, most restaurants on Third Street South and Fifth Avenue continue to do decent business — serving lunch and dinner.

It's during the a.m. that options are few and far between. That fact didn't go unnoticed by Jane and Tony Wood, who were looking to open a dining venue in Old Naples. Last fall, they chose an empty storefront at 1209 Third St. S., tucked inside a delightful courtyard shared by upscale enterprises like Sonya Benson and A Mano, and set about filling the untapped niche.

Over the next few months, the Woods and family members gutted the space and Jane's Café on 3rd was born on Dec. 1. But don't let the plain-Jane name fool you.

The result is a combination of old world charm and new world casual elegance.

At first glance, I dubbed the look "Euro" but my guest disagreed.

"This reminds me of being in the Hamptons — if the Hamptons had palm trees," she countered.

Another friend, who works in the area, doesn't care to make geographical comparisons. He's just glad it's here.

"Lots of restaurants serve lunch, even Jane's does. But it's almost impossible to find a good, hot breakfast. Outside of 7-Eleven, which doesn't exactly offer sit-down service and gourmet food, I can't think of anybody else who is open at 8 a.m. seven days a week."

Those breakfasts at Jane's, we discovered, aren't just good, they're first-rate. So are the lunches. And word appears to be spreading. During our visit, every inside table was taken —both before and after 10 a.m. when surrounding shops started taking the closed signs out of their windows.

(It should be noted that the café boasts a spacious al fresco dining area complete with gurgling fountains, attractive foliage and unusual pottery accents. I'm told it was a popular gathering spot during season but is naturally losing its appeal as temps rise.)

Not to worry, though. The interior is cool and relaxing, walls a soothing lilac-tinged shade of blue. Beautifully framed artwork by locals Natalie Guess and Phil Fisher add splashes of color.

As the excellent coffee keeps coming, the menu entices. While it isn't the most extensive in town — remember, the café is small — it boasts a good mix of standards and more original offerings.

Some, like fresh-baked scones, reflect Jane Wood's English heritage. Most, however, just reflect the owners' love of fresh, made-from-scratch foods using top ingredients. (Mayo and dressings, for example, are mixed daily in-house.)

The breakfast bill of fare is varied, filled with various egg dishes — including a low-carb platter of scrambled egg whites with sliced tomatoes — as well as bagels, Belgium waffles, pastries, freshly made oatmeal and smoked salmon.

I chose a classic quiche Lorraine ($8.75), which included the regulation bacon and Swiss cheese with the welcome added attraction of tomato, which enhanced the taste and texture. A broccoli and cheddar version is also available, plus a daily special. During my visit, the quiche du jour was made with feta, spinach and bacon

My generous wedge of eggy, custardy quiche was partnered with a medley of excellent sliced fruit: fresh pineapple, an orange slice, raspberries, grapes and a sprinkling of blueberries.

The rasher of bacon I ordered on the side ($2.75) was the only disappointment. I was served four or five slices of so-so bacon that looked lost sitting on the middle of a large blue plate.

An Italian omelet listed on the chalkboard ($8) got my guest's attention. The egg mix was rich and creamy, stuffed with ham, salami, onions and mozzarella cheese. This was definitely a best bet and came with crisp whole-wheat toast on the side.

For later tasting, I took home one of Jane's Café Club sandwiches ($8.75) on a friend's recommendation. It was a two-fisted feast, which included fresh roasted turkey, bacon, lettuce and tomato on your choice of bread. The aforementioned homemade mayonnaise made this selection extra-special.

Other possibilities include a Reuben, tuna or chicken melt, croissant with egg salad, an array of salads, homemade soups and chili and an array of wraps.

Jane's Café on 3rd also features a well-stocked pastry case filled with made-on-premises pies and other desserts plus quiches.

During season, breakfast and lunch hours are clearly defined. But at this slower time of year, breakfast is served throughout the day.

Note: Jane's Café is a little hard to find if you aren't familiar with the area. Look for the small courtyard plaza behind the concierge station on Third Street South.