On the Menu: The Chef's Express

Designed in the '80s and forgotten in the '90s, The Shops of Olde Marco makes a new and exciting comeback with The Chef's Express. Anchored in the center of The Shops at Olde Marco, The Chef's Express is an indoor-outdoor bistro-café that delivers more than quality food and competitive prices. The Chef's Express is an island kitchen that also offers a top-quality takeout menu that specializes in home delivery.

Located at 176 Royal Palm Drive, owner and shining star Chef Anne Feinman clings to her mission statement: "We are determined to give our customers more than something different and more than the norm."

With an emphasis on quality provisions and creative home recipes, this new island classic is on the trail to true success.

For the Labor Day weekend, Sunday breakfast, my favorite culinary cohort and I arrived at The Shops of Olde Marco. As we walked through the open arch and stepped on the old cobblestone bricks, I was literally stopped in my tracks as I suddenly remembered what I had forgotten. For a moment I couldn't believe what I saw. Everything before me shouted of Key West, but then I remembered, wait a minute — this is Marco.

With the old brick pavers framing the floor and the gumbo-limbo branches covering the sky, old-island chic permeates the air as the checkered tablecloths and striped umbrellas welcome patrons into an almost magical ambiance.

Before I could get my legs kick-started and stopped admiring the setting, Mimi arrived with the Chef's Express "What's Cookin?" approach (and logo) and gave us the grand tour. A raised statue with a bowl of swimming pollywogs was jokingly pointed out as tomorrow's special — Frog Legs.

We were then shown the optional indoor boutique-style dining with air-conditioning and then back to what I can only refer to as the Ernest Hemingway orchid garden. With blooming orchids clinging to the palm trees and the trickle of water from the wishing-well water fountain, this is a setting that must be seen — the type of ambient magic that compels folks to drive to the Keys or fly to the islands.

When we finally settled under the branches of a big friendly tree and a tropical table and umbrella, we looked over the menu and ordered coffee. Mimi suggested the Eggs Benedict for $9 and the Crunchy Delight for $9. Mimi's suggestions were awesome! We were too spellbound by the surroundings to concentrate on reading and making decisions.

The Eggs Benedict was a great example of the classic poached eggs, English muffin with hollandaise, but the Canadian ham was clearly a cut above and the fresh fruit on the side was a great compliment to the tropical scenery. Real home fries with onions, and green and red peppers accompanied the breakfast traditional, but with these home fries, there was never any thought of asking for ketchup.

The Crunchy Delight can be described as no less than a culinary work of genius. Made with a rich multigrain bread and then dipped into a secret recipe of butternut, cinnamon and a few other guarded ingredients, this masterpiece is then coated in crunchy cereal and thinly sliced almonds. After a dash of powdered sugar, this truly Crunchy Delight is finished with fresh strawberries and bananas.

The entire breakfast experience was heavenly and topped off with Chef's Express' traditional Chef's Treat. Our treat was a pair of English muffins with a side choice of strawberry or raspberry jam, made fresh by Anne. The preserves are delightful, rich and flavorful, with a big portion of sincere pride packaged in every container. The jams are available to take home as well as everything "On the Menu!"

The Chef's Express delivers home-cooked, pride-packaged meals to the home or office and with testimonials expanding and a reputation building, The Chef's Express just might be the perfect solution for an "express" breakfast, lunch or any impromptu culinary occasion.

With wireless Internet service available in the cozy courtyard and a Web site that will, upon request, e-mail daily specials, The Chef's Express offers everything from cyberspace service to a fresh produce stand and indoor-outdoor dining in the winter season.

Currently open seven days for breakfast and lunch, 7 a.m. until 2 p.m., The Chef's Express will be serving dinner out on the cobblestones, under the trees and the stars, beginning on Oct. 1. Catering is also available.

When too busy at work to go out for lunch, or too tired from a long day to feel like cooking, or when the grocery stores are too crowded and the restaurant lines too long, call The Chef's Express at (239) 393-2433 or www.TheChef'sExpress.com. Don't forget: With the registration of a personal e-mail address, daily specials arrive to your computer every morning.

Grab a friend, family member or just someone to impress, and visit the cozy cobbled court of the Ernest Hemingway orchid garden. The ambiance is awesome; the personal pride of the food quality evident in every bite, and even the most seasoned traveler will be compelled to agree: Chef/owner Anne Feinman is a rising star that is really beginning to shine.