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Some 9,000 years ago, the natives chewed agave cactus, or mixed the syrup with honey and vinegar to make a drink which was thought to be restorative if one was ill. People made soup of the juice as well. Not only did it cure, it led one to dancing and even to drunkenness.

Legend says that three Philippine sailors taught the people of Mexico to distill agave juice into tequila long ago. True or not, the number of distilleries in Mexico rose from 35 to 70 in the last part of the 20th Century, and tequila is now the trendiest liquor in America.

Like vodka, there are now flavored versions on the market. Pulque and mescal are inferior products of the same cactus. It's tequila that is now so famous that some brands cost a hundred dollars a bottle.

Color varies with the price: silver, gold and blue tequilas are available today. Read the label and determine if the liquid within is made from 100 percent pure agave. It's always sold this way in Mexico, but here we can buy various mixtures. Experts say that you can buy the cheapest brand for mixed drinks.

A popular toast when sharing a tequila drink is to wish your friends love, money and the time to enjoy both of them.

There are more recipes for the Margarita than there are spines on a cactus. The La Roca restaurant in Nogales, Mexico, uses equal parts of tequila and Cointreau mixed with the same amount of half lime juice and half water. Many people prefer a stronger lime taste — take your choice. If you are going to whirl this drink in the blender with ice, perhaps equal parts of tequila, lime juice and liqueur are advisable.

As to the liqueur, Cointreau is the best and most expensive, but you may substitute Triple Sec or even Orange Curacao. Some people even use orange juice or grapefruit juice in this drink. The only thing they agree upon is that you should rub the outside rim of the glass with lime juice and twirl the rim in plain kitchen salt. Do not let salt adhere to the inner rim and get into the drink.

The Bacardi company markets a Margarita mix, and bartenders often use a common sweet-sour base. Some recipes call for Rose's bottled lime juice and some start with a can of frozen limeade.

Like the venerable Martini, there are dozens of ways to make this concoction. Modern additions include bananas, mangos and so on. Look hard enough and you will find a Margarita muffin mix on the shelves of some markets.

In Mexico, you will see people drinking tequila straight, licking a bit of salt from the palm of the hand and squeezing a cut lime into the mouth. For this, you should buy the better brands of tequila, but it's not a popular way to imbibe in America.

Some terms you might like to know:

Plato means the same as silver or white (blanco) and is not aged.

Reposado means tequila aged two to 12 months in wooden vats or barrels and picks up subtle tones of butterscotch and apple.

Anejo is like a single malt Scotch and is aged from one to five years in sealed oak barrels where the flavors mellow and the liquid takes on hints of vanilla, smoke or dried fruit, depending on whether the barrels are new French white oak or "charred" barrels formerly used for bourbon in America.

Gold tequila means that caramel color is added before exporting to the United States in tank cars.

Azul or blue tequila is made only from the blue agave and is top of the line.

Tequila Sunrise

This attractive drink became popular long ago and is still seen in bars. The method is a little tricky and very important.

2 ounces tequila

4 ounces orange juice

1 ounce grenadine

Pour tequila in a highball glass filled with cracked ice and top with orange juice. Stir and then carefully float grenadine down sides of glass while rotating it. This creates the sunrise effect and you do not stir again. Serve with straws and you may add a slice of lime on the edge of the glass.

Margarita Cake

It was probably inevitable that this cake would be "invented" by lovers of tequila.

1 package lemon cake mix

1 three-ounce package lemon or Key lime instant pudding

4 eggs

½ cup salad oil

½ cup lime juice

Combine cake mix with the pudding mix. Add eggs, salad oil and lime juice. Bake in a sprayed and floured bundt pan, following directions on box of cake mix, or use a large rectangular cake pan and bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. Pierce cake all over with fork while hot and pour over it a glaze made as follows:

1 stick butter

1 cup sugar

½ cup lime juice

½ cup tequila

Cook butter, sugar and juice slowly for five minutes. Remove from heat and add tequila just before glazing cake. Cake improves with a few hours of mellowing.

• • •

Tequila is not Mexico's only drink — they produce fine beer, gin and rum. However, one of the oldest beverages is the one introduced to the Spanish conquistadors by the Aztecs: chocolate, often called an aphrodisiac.

In Mexico and in Hispanic stores here, you can purchase tablets of pressed chocolate mixed with sugar and flavors. You should have a wooden molinillo (stirring stick) to combine some of this tablet with boiling water or milk, but a blender will do just fine.

If you have no chance to buy Mexican chocolate, combine in blender some very hot milk with good powdered cocoa, sweeten to taste, add a dash of vanilla and cinnamon.

Some cooks like to add a bit of instant coffee or use hot coffee for some of the liquid. In Mexico, a dash of hot pepper is often added. Whirl until frothy and serve in mugs topped with whipped cream.