Olive oil tasting attracts taste buds

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Olive oil tasting attracts taste buds

Photo by JENINE C. OUILLETTE

Executive Chef Alberto Varetto appears to be pleased with the abundant assortment of The Olive Company’s organic olive oils displayed on the table that will be using for the Tarpon Club Olive Oil Tasting.

Sale e Pepe

480 South Collier Blvd., Marco Island

Who would have thought that tasting several kinds of olive oil could be such a pleasurable way to while away an hour? Well, truth be told, there were 21 Tarpon Club members, several media people and two non-member individuals (five registered) who certainly appeared to be enjoying themselves immensely at the Taste of Tarpon Organic Olive Oil Tasting presented Wednesday in the coolly elegant Sale e’ Pepe Restaurant located at the Marco Beach Resort.

That having been said, this early bird arrived at quarter of the hour (the tasting started at 11a.m) and so, enjoyed a pleasurable conversation with the equally cool and tres talented Alberto Varretto, Executive Chef, Sale e Pepe, who would be presenting the Organic Olive Oil Tasting along with Field Reichardt, president of the Michigan-based Organic Olive Oil Company.

“We will taste both Old World Tuscan and New World New New Zealand and Argentina — I think Europe is Old World,” he declared, “Taste each with bread, then a little salad to compare. Then after that I’ve prepared a special lunch using all the olive oils — make it nice, make it simple — the four (organic olive oils) are complementary.

“Argentinean is light, almost like the Ligurian oil that I use — I really like the Argentinean!” Chef Varetto explained, “The Tuscan and Sicilian are very robust, very powerful!” Your reporter inquired if it was like the wine (soil and climate)? “Yes, the quality depends on everything — the climate, the soil!”

Alas, that ended our talk because every one was finally seated and Ginger McLean, Tarpon Club director of membership and sales, welcomed the assemblage and then recognized: “Four people who always attend (Tarpon Club events), George and Donna Ohye and Jim and Eileen Robertson,” She said, waving a hand toward the four people seated to our right. “We’re the groupies,” they said in unison. McLean explained that Tarpon Club members’ priorities are: Beach; Boat; Fine wine and Dining — “We like to do things in multiples — Chef Varetto really embraced this program — a fabulous opportunity for us,” McLean said, recalling past Tarpon Club member-exclusive programs held at Sale e Pepe. For instance, the Cheese presentation in November; Chocolate in July; the January pasta program — “Made with the finest products we can find,” she concluded and proceeded to introduce Field Reichardt.

“My passion, my enthusiasm is focused on making these exceptional, rare organic olive oils made by artisan farmers around the world available here — so you can go to the store and buy fine olive oil like you would buy wine,” Reichardt stated, adding that his primary purpose for presenting the tasting was to bring the flavor out to the people: “No one sits at home Friday night (tasting olive oil), but they will enjoy dipping bread in oil (in lieu of butter) as a pleasurable accompaniment to dinner.”

Now, it was time to really open the lovely and classy folders (filled to the brim with olive oil facts and figures) found at each place setting, one after the other in a continuous line around the u-shaped white linen covered table. There was another table placed across the top of the “U” that held an assortment of the olive oils that were used for the tasting and another smaller table within the “U” held the little, but sturdy, (two-ounce?) plastic glasses, as well as little cups each filled with two tart apple slices that would be distributed to each one for palate cleansing between each olive oil (four) tasting.

Although it sounds unexciting, the actual ritual — like acolytes — warming the little oil-filled glasses in the hands; inhale the aroma and the fruit (as with wine, the “nose speaks loudly”); then take a sip and at the same time suck in air to distribute the flavors; focus on the sensation of sweet then a bitter peppery taste as the olive oil trickles into the back of the throat; each repetition creating a greater appreciation of artisan olive oil. “This is good!” said Reichardt, explaining it is good and that the “pepperiness” is more pronounced in robust oils, and conversely, oil that has a “fruity” aroma and taste is really turning rancid. Well, we all did and tasted our way through the following “Order for Tarpon Club Olive Oil Tasting” fact sheet included in the folder (facts: artisan’s name, place, harvest year): Delicate, Armando Mansur, Mendoza, Argentina, 2007; Full-flavored, Moutere Grove, Nelson, New Zealand, 2007; Robust Oils: Villa Stabbia, Tuscany, Italy, 2006; Salvatore Mirisola, Sicily, Italy.

Earlier, before the tasting, Reichardt promised to open a bottle of “Brand X” that he purchased earlier in the supermarket. He held the bottle up and drew everyone’s attention to the clear glass container, reminding them that olive oil should be purchased in dark bottles or in tins, and that “light is a significant destroyer of olive oil.” Well, talk about epiphany! Everyone was given one of the little glasses with a bit of the “Brand X” olive oil: Your reporter heard a couple of gasps and a tiny taste was sufficient — Brand X” tasted like motor oil — truly! To hold your own organic olive oil tasting, Wynn’s Market, in downtown Naples, stocks several The Organic Oil Company varieties, and Evoo Market and Restaurant does too, or for more information: www.organicoilcompany.com

Actually, the whole presentation was a palate pleaser, especially the exquisite lunch Chef Varetto prepared using all the oils from the presentation as a seasoning. There was a basket filled with slices of the wonderful artisan bread made and baked on premises that was even tastier dipped in olive oil tarted up with a bit of balsamic from Modena. The first course — fresh fettuccine, perfectly al dente, simply seasoned with olive oil, a whiff of garlic and bits of parsley. Awesome is as awesome does — for the palate pleasing salad: Fresh Tomato Carpaccio topped with a mound of Mesclun and several succulent, delicately marinated Jumbo Shrimp and drizzled with light vinaigrette – simply superb, and followed by Tiramisu that tasted as good as it looked.

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