Most of us have happy childhood memories of gingerbread men or houses, but the ugly root has an old and honorable lineage unknown to many people.

Ginger (Zingiber officianale) has been used since ancient times to treat a variety of illnesses: stomach complaints, heart trouble, headaches, depression and many others. It’s raised commercially in India, Africa and China, but most of the fresh root we buy today comes from Jamaica. The name is from a Sanskrit word meaning horned root, due to its knobby appearance.

The root has a spicy, pungent aroma and a sweet, peppery flavor. The skin is tan and the flesh is usually white. Young spring ginger is tender, but the mature root must be peeled before using, a somewhat arduous task.

It’s prominent in Oriental and Indian cuisines, but it also found its way to Europe centuries ago and was adopted there in a ground and dried form used mostly for baking.

Buy fresh ginger with smooth skin -- wrinkles indicate the root has dried out and become tough and fibrous. You may freeze the whole root and just snap off what you need to defrost for a recipe. Also, you may peel, slice and store ginger in a jar with Madeira or dry sherry for several weeks in the refrigerator. This results in only a slight change in flavor, and the Wine can be used in cooking afterwards.

Asian cooks usually use fresh ginger and prefer the youngest type. Quick dishes are fashioned with this versatile root, such as Ondi Lang, a Thai dessert of ice cream with minced ginger and bananas.

Americans usually buy their ginger ground for baking purposes. Dried ginger is no substitute for fresh in Oriental dishes.

There is a wide range of Western recipes which call for ginger: pumpkin pie, Indian pudding, gingerbread cake and cookies, gingersnaps, spice cakes, fruit cakes and so forth. Americans add crushed gingersnaps to sauerbraten gravy, but my German friends find this odd.

Ginger is also good in fruit compotes, chutney, India relish and other pickled products. Dried ginger shows up in recipes for soups, stews, curries and many meat dishes.

Commercially, the root flavors ginger ale and ginger beer, which comes in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic forms. Remember the 1950s craze for Moscow Mules with vodka, lime and ginger beer? It inspired the production and sale of copper mugs throughout America.

Candied or crystallized ginger is a delectable confection which is also used in desserts and preserves. It’s tedious to make, and you can usually buy it in large markets or specialty shops. Oriental preserved ginger is salty-sweet and goes splendidly with fresh melons. Still another item, Oriental pickled ginger, is preserved in sweet vinegar and is a garnish for Asian dishes such as sushi.

Here are some ideas for using ginger in everyday cooking:

-– Add a slice of fresh ginger root when you steep hot tea for a refreshing change. This makes great iced tea also.

– Asian ginger-limeade: Boil equal parts sugar and water with a few sliced of ginger added to make a simple syrup. Chill well. Mix with pineapple juice and lime juice to taste for the limeade, and serve on ice. Add rum if you wish for a very good cocktail.

– Add a slice of the root to some white wine vinegar. Leave it in the sun for a few days to mellow. Use it to make dressing for Oriental salads.

– Add chopped candied ginger when making fig or pear jam, along with a few thin slices of fresh lime.

– Add a thin slice of ginger root when preparing rice for any Asian dish. Add some to plain old rice pudding as well.

– Add minced candied ginger to the batter when making gingerbread. It’s also nice to add it to the sweetened whipped cream for topping that or any other dessert.

Ginger-hopper

If you own a juicer, juice half of a Delicious apple with skin and core removed, 4-5 scrubbed carrots with green tops removed and a half-inch of fresh ginger root. Stir and serve chilled or at room temperature.

This makes an 8-ounce serving and I think kids would love it.

Aunt Onie’s gingerbread muffins

Aunt Onie was an eccentric old lady whose family put up with her because she was their best baker. Here’s her recipe for delicious muffins, which must be made a day ahead to chill overnight. This makes two dozen muffins, but you don’t have to bake them all at once — the batter keeps well for two weeks.

Whisk together and set aside to foam:

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup buttermilk (remember you can buy this powdered)

In electric mixer bowl, beat:

3/4 cup lard or shortening

Add gradually:

1/2 cup each white sugar and light brown sugar, packed

Beat for five minutes, then add:

2 eggs, one at a time

1/2 cup molasses or dark corn syrup.

Beat mixture well.

In clean large bowl, whisk together:

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon each salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves

Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture alternately with buttermilk, beginning and ending with dry ingredients. Blend well and stir in:

1/2 cup currants

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Transfer to plastic container with a tight lid and refrigerate overnight.

To bake: Use paper liners in muffin tins and fill each about 3/4 full. Bake at 325 degrees for 20-25 minutes, until muffins are firm to the touch. Serve hot with butter and listen to the cries for more.

Benihana salad

Combine in blender and process until smooth:

1/2 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup peanut oil

1/3 cup rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons catsup

2 tablespoons chopped celery

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Chill after blending. Very good on salad of spinach, mandarin orange sections, scallions and water chestnuts. In California, this is often served with grilled chicken pieces on top.

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Marion Nicolay is a regular contributor to the Marco Island Eagle. Contact her via e-mail at mnicolay@naples.net.