On most menus in Southwest Florida, grouper reigns supreme. It’s the granddaddy of local fishes, with famously flaky flesh and a light flavor that makes it excellent to prepare and enjoy.

Still, there are plenty of other fish in the sea – or, in this case, the Gulf of Mexico and area backwaters. If you’ve caught some of these lesser-known lovelies, or been offered a few by someone who has, you may fear venturing into previously uncharted culinary waters.

There’s no need to worry, explains Capt. Steve Sorbara, owner of Intofishin’ Charters in Naples (289-2966; on the Web at www.fishnaplesflorida.com). Whether it’s a wily snook or a wary sheepshead, the majority of what is hooked locally is ultimately similar to grouper when it’s cleaned and filleted.

“It’s very good, very edible, very light and flaky and mild,” Sorbara explained. “If you like fish, you’ll like everything around here.”

Sorbara’s preferred method is to toss his catch on his charcoal grill and use light, simple seasonings to accentuate the flavor. Most of his recipes call for little more than salt and pepper, a dash of seafood seasoning, garlic and olive oil. He likes to use citrus zest, but recommends going easy on the citrus juice; it can overpower the clean, fresh flavors of the fish.

“To me, heavy seasonings just kill it,” Sorbara said.

He’ll sauté occasionally. But fry? Almost never. Mention a deep-fried grouper filet to this South Florida-reared fisherman, and Sorbara groans, wondering why anyone would want to drown such a delicate fish beneath layers of heavy batter. The same goes for fish such as pompano, sheepshead and sea trout, his three local favorites.

“It’s so easy to just fry anything,” he said. “I could fry a shoe and you wouldn’t even know the difference.”

Richard Miller, executive chef of North Naples restaurant Randy’s Fishmarket, also suggests keeping things basic when preparing what’s caught locally.

“Don’t disguise the quality of the fish,” he said. “Fish itself has a unique flavor, and if you overdo it, you tend to bury the flavor.”

Although many Southwest Florida fish are deliciously similar, Miller notes that some have a better firmness for grilling. He likes mahi-mahi and wahoo on the grill; both are caught offshore, and have a steak-like texture that holds up well. Others, such as yellowtail snapper, are not as well suited to grilling, but are better for sautéing, broiling or baking. One of Miller’s sautéing favorites is hogfish, which he compares to Dover sole — only better. The most popular menu item at Randy’s Fishmarket is the Neapolitan Grouper. A simple sauté preparation, it will work well with any of the area’s fish, Miller said.

Dredge the fish filet in seasoned flour, then place in a plan of butter or olive oil. Brown one side and turn, sautéing for up to two minutes. Add artichoke hearts, chopped tomatoes, chopped garlic and chopped basil, as well as white wine and lemon juice to taste. Sauté four to five more minutes, with a total cook time of seven to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the filet.

For fish-friendly herbs, Miller likes tarragon, which has a pleasant, sweet flavor, and cilantro for its lemon essence.

Brien Spina, owner of Capt. Brien’s Seafood & Raw Bar on Marco Island and a former charter fishing boat captain, recommends a cooking time of three to five minutes per side when preparing fish. Nothing more than 10 minutes, he said.

Spina offers what could be considered a classic take on how to cook one of the most sought-after local fish — snook.

After cleaning and filleting, sprinkle salt and pepper over the fish. Then, take freshly-sliced limes, oranges and lemon and stack them over the top, “like cards,” he said. Sprinkle chopped cilantro and parsley over the citrus. Wrap the filet in aluminum foil, adding a pat of butter or splash of white wine to taste, and grill on high heat for about eight minutes. Most importantly, don’t flip the foiled fish.

This preparation “almost kind of steams it,” Spina said. “Then you open it up and the citrus gives it a really fresh flavor.”

Snook, permit and redfish are Spina’s favorite fish. With redfish, he likes to make a piccata, he said. For that, he does a traditional piccata sauce, and sautés the redfish – or occasionally black drum, a good local alternative – in a lightly buttered pan. He serves it all with linguine.

It’s not all grill, sauté, bake or broil, either. Don’t forget to think outside the tackle box when preparing local fish.

To make his smoked fish dip, Sorbara boils mackerel, a fish that’s sometimes overlooked as anglers seek more a more exciting, unusual catch. Then he adds onion, bacon, mayo and seasonings to create a dip that is as quick and easy as it is popular and delicious.

It’s another example of the variety of fine, finned delicacies just waiting to be reeled in.

“Our fish around here, it’s so versatile,” Sorbara said. “You can do anything with it.”

Pompano on the Grill

This recipe from Captaing Steve Sorbara of Intofishin’ Charters, works well for snappers, too, he says. It’s easy, but it does involve a grill. Sorbara says to make sure to cook the fish with the skin because the skin has a dual purpose: it protects the meat from the flame, and there is moisture in the skin that steams the fish from the inside out.

Ingredients

2-4 med size Pompano fillets (skin on and boned; see below)

4 cloves of garlic

2 limes

1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Preparation

* Place pompano in large zipper-type plastic food bag .

* Chop garlic and remove zest from both limes and juice from one of the limes.

* Mix olive oil, garlic, Old Bay, lime zest and juice in a bowl.

* Pour the mixture over the fish, coat pieces well and marinate for at least 1 hour

* Fire up the grill and let it get as hot as possible; a charcoal grill is best, but a gas grill will work, too.

* Place fish, skin side down, on the hot grill & close the lid.

* Do not open the grill, and do not flip the fish while it cooks.

* In 6 to 8 minutes, check the fish by trying to gently flake it with a fork in the

thickest section. When fish flakes, remove it and serve..

* Salt to taste. Sorbara serves this with Spanish yellow rice and grilled asparagus.

* To bone the fish, he says to remove the rib cage. if you run your finger down the center or bloodline of the meat from head to tail you will feel small bones, these must be removed. Run a fillet knife down each side of the bloodline and remove. -- Steve Sorbara

Steamed Sheepshead in Foil Pouches

Ingredients

4 garlic cloves chopped

¼ to ½ diced red onion

Fresh basil or cilantro or both

1 lime

Old Bay seasoning

White wine

Butter

Salt and pepper

Aluminum foil

Preparation

* Wash fillets in cool water & pat dry

* Tear foil so 1 portion fits in one pouch

* Lightly sprinkle Old Bay on both sides of fish (optional); place fish in foil and layer the garlic, onion and a pinch of fresh herbs on it, along with 1 tablespoon wine and the juice of the f lime. A small pat of butter (optional) can be added.

* Place a thin lime slice or zest on top along with a pinch of salt and ground black pepper

* Fold into an airtight pouch and place in a 425-degree oven and bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or toss them on a grill.

* Serve over a bed of rice pilaf. This will work with any white flaky fish. -- Steve Sorbara

Orange Ginger Sea Trout

This recipe will work with any white flaky fish.

Ingredients

4 sea trout fillets skinned, boned, rinsed and patted dry

4 cloves chopped garlic

1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning

1 navel orange

1 tablespoon fresh minced ginger

1/8 cup mayonnaise

1/8 cup white wine

1/8 cup fresh grated Romano or similar cheese

¼ cup Italian breadcrumbs

Preparation

* In a bowl combine garlic, ginger, Old Bay, mayo, wine and zest from one

orange and juice from ½ the orange. The mixture should somewhat thickly coat a spoon.

* Spray a cooking dish with nonstick cooking spray; place fish in the dish and

lightly coat it with the mixture.

* Mix cheese and bread crumbs in a bowl and coat the top of the fish.

* Bake at 425 degrees for 5 to 7 minutes, then broil on the low setting until the top browns. Check for flaking with a fork

* Serve with white rice and steamed broccoli -- Steve Sorbara

Easy Smoked Fish Dip

Ingredients

2 pounds mackerel fillets, roughly 4 fillets

½ sweet onion, minced

4 slices precooked bacon

1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

¼ cup (or more, to taste) mayonnaise

½ bottle Liquid Smoke

Preparation

* Boil the mackerel in water until it is flaking; remove and mix everything except the mayonnaise.

* Let the mixture cool in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

* Add mayonnaise, fresh ground black pepper and salt if needed

* Let it cool in fridge some more if you can stand it!

* Serve the dip on a good cracker with your favorite hot sauce and a cold one. -- Steve Sorbara

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