Review: Upscale comfort food at Patric’s

House Salad with tomato, onion, cucumber, pecans, dried cherries and a balsamic reduction. Patric's Restaurant is Located at 1485 Pine Ridge Road in Naples.

Photo by KELLI STANKO

House Salad with tomato, onion, cucumber, pecans, dried cherries and a balsamic reduction. Patric's Restaurant is Located at 1485 Pine Ridge Road in Naples.

Patric’s

Where:1485 Pine Ridge Road, Suite 3 304-9754 or www.patrics.com

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily

Cuisine: Comfort food with a twist

Beverages: soda, coffee and milk

Atmosphere: Casual but can be bustling with activity

Service: Prompt and courteous

Prices: Everything is less than $10, with most prices in the $5.95-$8.95 range

Recommended dishes: The fresh ahi tuna melt ($8.25), corn bread ($1.50), bacon Benedict ($5.95) and smoked salmon omelette ($7.25).

Verdict: Satisfying foods with clever variations

Comfort food. Whether it’s a full breakfast of eggs, bacon and home fries or a huge order of chicken and biscuits, comfort food sticks to your ribs and fills you up. Plus, it just tastes good.

That’s what you’ll find at Patric’s, a quaint little diner-esque restaurant in Mission Square West, off Pine Ridge Road in Naples. But don’t be fooled. There are no vinyl tablecloths, no tacky napkin dispensers like you’d find at a greasy spoon. Instead, there is a cozy counter (for lunchtime loners) and intimate tables (for the lingering types), and a menu featuring an array of comfort food with a twist.

For instance: the Caesar salad ($5.99). It’s not so much a salad as it is a whole head of romaine lettuce, cut in half lengthwise and then flash grilled to sear the edges, dressed and served with a Parmesan cheese wafer. A piece of Caribbean-style corn bread accompanies it.

A popular lunch entrée is the fresh ahi tuna melt ($8.25). While it contains all the ingredients of a standard tuna melt, such as tuna, onion, mayo and cheese, it’s not a tuna salad. Patric’s layers them atop two slices of rye bread and serves it open-faced. The savory flavor of the tuna dominates the pungent onion and rye bread to make a winning combination.

Patric’s bacon Benedict ($5.95) is also a signature dish. Served with home fries, it consists of a grilled English muffin with bacon and eggs smothered in a pudding-thick hollandaise sauce. And trust me, the sauce is thick — a little too much for my personal liking, but the menu forewarns those who expect the more common fare of runny hollandaise sauce.

Even the traditional two-egg breakfast ($4) tops Grandma’s. The eggs, ordered scrambled, were the perfect — and I mean perfect — mix of slightly moist while still being completely cooked; it arrived with home fries and toast. I opted for a side of corned beef hash (an extra $3). But don’t expect the kind that comes from a can, because Patric’s’ corned beef hash bears no similarities. Instead, it is shredded meat with large onion slices and served over home fries. “Very unusual” was my take, while customers seated nearby raved over it.

Even the comfort food of all comfort foods, biscuits and gravy (full order $5.50; half-order $3), has been tweaked. Expecting oodles of white gravy with minimal chucks of sausage, I was taken aback when the server sat down a mounded plate of sausage smothering two biscuits amongst a river of brown gravy. Its chunks of meat were flavorful but not overly spiced. The half-order was more than filling when accompanying other breakfast entrees, so buyer beware.

Bacon Benedict, grilled english muffin with bacon and eggs smothered in homemade hollandaise sauce, seved with homemade homefries.  Patric's Restaurant is Located at 1485 Pine Ridge Road in Naples.

Photo by KELLI STANKO

Bacon Benedict, grilled english muffin with bacon and eggs smothered in homemade hollandaise sauce, seved with homemade homefries. Patric's Restaurant is Located at 1485 Pine Ridge Road in Naples.

For lunch, the grilled chicken breast with bacon, avocado, provolone cheese and chipotle dressing ($8.50) will appeal. The lightly charred chicken breast is a nice contrast to the dressing, which gave the sandwich zing. It is served with what the restaurant calls its “addictive” fries, which, however, seemed too salted for my personal liking when I was there. You may opt for sweet potato fries.

Kids will be in hog heaven after sampling Patric’s kid burger and fries ($2.50) — and parents too. Larger than a slider, the burger is made of quality beef and is cheaper than a Happy Meal from McDonald’s. But, kids, a toy isn’t included. (There are crayons and coloring books to distract youngsters while they await the meal.)

The breakfast crowd may also go for its breakfast burrito ($6.25), which consists of scrambled eggs, sausage, home fries, black beans and cheese, all mixed together and served with salsa and sour cream. Or any variety of omelette, such as smoked salmon ($7.25) with lemon cream cheese, tomatoes and capers; jerk chicken ($6.95) with tomato, onion, pepperjack cheese and topped with sliced avocado; and the pot roast skillet ($6.50), with home fries, pot roast, onions, eggs and cheese.

Ahh, happy endings, or what the rest of us call dessert, are plentiful at Patric’s. Gary’s cheesecake bananas Foster ($5) and Gamma Cathy’s Dutch apple pie ($4.50) are both homemade. The wide assortment of muffins ($2.75) are great for take-away. The blueberry one with a cream cheese frosting was moist with big, hearty blueberries; a coconut muffin was subtly flavored with the same cream cheese frosting, this time dusted with coconut. If you want to take Patric’s twist to the nth degree, he suggests grilling them.

Partic's Breakfast Burrito with scrambled eggs, sausage, home fries, black beans and cheese. Served with homemade salsa. Patric's Restaurant is Located at 1485 Pine Ridge Road, Naples.

Photo by KELLI STANKO

Partic's Breakfast Burrito with scrambled eggs, sausage, home fries, black beans and cheese. Served with homemade salsa. Patric's Restaurant is Located at 1485 Pine Ridge Road, Naples.

Owners Gary Teater and Patric (“without the k”) Achilles opened the restaurant on Pine Ridge Road in July during the economic downturn. Because they stress “local, local, local,” the restaurant has witnessed substantial growth.

“I believe people are more apt to spend less than $10 two or three times a week before they’ll spend $65 on dinner,” says Patric, who credits some of the restaurant’s success to the catering business the partners operate.

They also actively welcome four-legged diners — outdoors — as well as those who require free wireless Internet (indoors).

For this local, Patric’s delivers exactly what it promised: really good food.

© 2010 marconews.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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