Description: What's good to eat? Start with the calamari ($11). Chef Ettore Laccetti makes one of the best versions in town, using minimal, delicate breading. He pairs the tender squid with paper-thin slices of zucchini and bathes his creation in a light, bright red sauce. Starters at Ristorante d'Angeli ride the range from steamed clams and prosciutto with melon to five salads, including a classic Caesar, and two traditional soups, pasta e fagioli and stracciatella, chicken consommé with spinach and egg. Entrées fall into several categories — risotto, pasta, meat and fish dishes plus daily specials. Main dishes fall primarily in the $14 to $20-something price range. Possibilities include spaghetti carbonara, numerous popular veal and chicken recipes, pork chops and an array of fish dishes. But whatever you select, be sure to save room for dessert. The tiramisu ($7) boasts a welcome new wrinkle. It is more of a pudding or parfait that perfectly blends the intoxicating mascarpone cheese, cream, espresso and chocolate flavors. The rich, moist chocolate mousse ($7) almost floats off the plate and the molten chocolate soufflé ($6) is positively ambrosial.

Heated smoking area? Yes
Smoking porch? Yes