‘Watts for Dinner’: LowBrow is high-brow where it counts

Will Watts
"WTC - What the Cluck" chicken wings from LowBrow Pizza and Beer in East Naples.

“Serious about pizza and beer ... and not much else,” reads the slogan at LowBrow Pizza and Beer. And I believe them.

The pizzas feature names like “Cheesus H. Crust,” the “Porker” and “Rando Calrissian;” then there’s the “Not pizza,” like the “Dad Bod Salad” and the “pizza bones.”

Things got off to a bizarre but appetizing start with the “WTC – What the Cluck” chicken wings “from the fiery pit of hell” smoked and dry-rubbed and served with blue cheese and celery sticks.

This pie called “Cortez the Killer,” and can be found at LowBrow Pizza and Beer in East Naples.

So the pit has a name, the Elle Belle, a “super-cool wood-burning brick oven from Modena, Italy.” The rub is amazing, and the wood-fired taste is supreme; so, what’s the bizarre? These wings are whole, from the body of the bird to the very tip of the wing – the drum, the middle section and the end, which is oftentimes discarded.

While I was not a fan of the presentation, or chicken skin for that matter, I couldn’t argue with the taste. Amazing start.

For our main event, we shared a pizza named “Cortez the Killer,” featuring chorizo, roasted potato, sweet corn, crème, cilantro, cotija cheese and chilies.

Tons of artwork by local artists adorn the walls at LowBrow Pizza and Beer in East Naples.

What’s chorizo? A Spanish sausage made with coarsely chopped pork, seasoned with garlic, pimentón – a smoked paprika – and salt; and it’s typically spicy (and as a side note, makes some amazing tacos). We often mix potatos and chorizo at home since a little chorizo goes a long way – it’s like the breadcrumbs in a meatloaf.

First, this pizza was amazing. From the signature woodfire taste to the unique blend of ingredients. But if I had to nitpick, and I do – that’s my job – I would have liked to see the potatoes and chorizo on the pizza intermingle a bit more. The potatoes were just another topping; and you sometimes got a bite of one without the other. Chorizo with potato = amazing. Potato alone = bland.

Tons of artwork by local artists adorn the walls at LowBrow Pizza and Beer in East Naples.

The only other thing I’d add to this pie is perhaps more sweet corn; or cilantro or chopped raw onion.

But that’s just if you nitpick. And you shouldn’t. Because this pizza is original, brilliant and one-of-a-kind. High marks. The highest.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the environment: The table was a work of art and the surroundings were comfortable, modern, yet down to earth. My favorite part? Tons of artwork adorn the walls from local artists. And it’s for sale!

Great food and the heart to support local, talented artists. What’s not to love?! LowBrow is high brow in my opinion.  

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If you go

LowBrow Pizza and Beer

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Even the table is a work of art at LowBrow Pizza and Beer in East Naples.